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Blackjack Basic Strategy
Focus here: chart-correct plays and rules—not promotional bonus hunting as a substitute for strategy.
Browse the explore blackjack index for related topics, or the online blackjack hub for where and how we evaluate games.
Basic strategy is the single thing that separates blackjack from every other game on the casino floor. Play it perfectly and the house edge collapses to about 0.5%. Play by instinct and it climbs to 2–5%, meaning a casual player loses roughly four to ten times more per dollar wagered than a player who follows the chart. Nothing else you can do at the table — not bet sizing, not reading the dealer, not sitting at a “hot” seat — is worth as much as getting these decisions right.
The chart is not opinion. It comes from simulations of billions of hands against every dealer up-card, and it gives you the mathematically correct move for every situation — hit, stand, double, split, or surrender. Your job is to memorize it until the decisions are automatic, then find a table with playable rules so the work pays off.
Before you drill the chart, learn the five actions you can take on any hand: hit or stand, double down, split, surrender, and take insurance. Then put in time on free blackjack before you risk anything real. Two or three weeks of honest practice is usually enough to stop hunting the chart mid-hand.
When you do move to real money, start well below your comfortable bet size. New players routinely burn through a bankroll in the first ten hands because they sized their unit for a win streak they hadn’t earned yet. Scale up only after the decisions feel boring.
Let’s examine the house edge in blackjack. The house’s only advantage over the player is that when the player breaks before the dealer does, he or she loses. This gives the house an initial edge of about 8%. However, the fact that blackjack pays 3:2 decreases the house edge down to 5.7%. Now, by knowing when to hit and stand, you decrease the house edge to about 2.5%. Knowing the correct doubling decisions trims the house edge to 1%, and finally, knowing when to split pairs cuts the house edge to under 0.5%.
This means that a completely uneducated blackjack player can expect to lose ten times as much as a player who knows perfect basic strategy. Of course, the vast majority of players fall somewhere in between these two extremes, but this shows how important basic strategy is in reducing the house edge.
If you want to gain an advantage over the casino, it is imperative that you first learn basic strategy. By learning basic strategy, you will typically cut down the house’s edge to less than 0.5%. Learning basic strategy does take hours of memorization, but it is well worth the effort. You must know these sets of rules like the back of your hand, and be able to make the correct decision instantaneously.
Before we begin discussing basic strategy, one point must be stressed. Never play under conditions where you cannot gain an advantage over the casino. If there are no casinos near you that offer a beatable game of blackjack, and they only offer games with terrible conditions, such as 8 decks with 60% penetration (see glossary if you do not know this word), don’t even bother playing: you are only wasting your time and money. Anything less than 66% penetration for a multi-deck game is almost impossible to beat.
Also avoid variations of blackjack such as Super Fun 21 and Spanish 21. These games give the players the impression that they are much better than regular blackjack by allowing liberal blackjack rules such as doubling on any number of cards, but they also have conditions (for example no 10’s in the deck) that make the game impossible to beat, even with card counting.
What is basic strategy? It is a set of rules on how you should play a hand (for example, when to split 7’s) under a certain set of conditions (e.g. number of decks, whether surrendering is allowed, etc.). These rules have been derived from computer simulations, involving millions of simulated hands.
When you play according to basic strategy, you minimize the house edge. Without playing basic strategy, the house edge is about 2 – 5%. This means that for every dollar you bet, you will lose 2 to 5 cents in the long run. By learning basic strategy, you cut the house edge down to about 0.5 percent.
Before you can go on to learn basic strategy, you must know what the posted rules of blackjack are at your casinos, and choose the one with the most favorable conditions. If you live near Las Vegas, you are very lucky, as they offer single deck blackjack, which is much easier to beat than multiple deck blackjack.
If you are in Atlantic City, you are not as lucky, as they use eight decks, which is quite difficult to beat. On top of that, surrendering is not allowed. Still, it can be beaten, as long as you have a big spread. For example, if your maximum bet is ten times your minimum bet, that can beat the casino, but it may also attract some unwanted attention.
Find out which casinos offer the most advantageous conditions, the fewer the number of decks, the better. What casinos offer other favorable conditions such as surrendering, or doubling after splitting? Try to avoid casinos with rules that are bad for the player, such as dealer hits soft 17.
Go to the site below to find your basic strategy charts. It will also show the house edge. Try to find the casino that offers blackjack with the most favorable conditions, that is, the lowest house edge. You can read the Casino Max review, Miami Club review , High Country casino review, Cherry Jackpot casino review, or Roaring 21 review to name a few.
How do you find the game with the lowest house edge? Some of the information below was obtained from Stanford Wong’s Professional Blackjack book which you can find here
| Decks | Percent |
|---|---|
| One | 0.01% |
| Two | -0.32% |
| Four | -0.49% |
| Six | -0.54% |
| Eight | -0.57% |
| Rule | Percent Change |
|---|---|
| Dealer Hits Soft 17 | -0.2% |
| Double After Splitting Allowed | 0.14% |
| Double on Ten and Eleven Only | -0.17% |
| Double Only Nine, Ten, and Eleven | -.08% |
| Resplitting Aces Allowed (if four or more decks) | 0.08% |
| Late Surrender | 0.08% |
| Early Surrender | 0.6 |
| Lose All Doubles/Splits Against Dealer’s Blackjack | -0.11% |
An Example of Basic Blackjack Strategy
Below are the correct basic strategy charts for a game with following conditions:

How to Use the Charts
There are three charts — hard hands, soft hands, and pairs. Pick the right one first, then read across.
- Pairs first. If both your cards are the same rank (two 5s, two 8s, etc.), check the pair-splitting chart before anything else. If the chart says not to split, treat the hand as a normal hard total.
- Soft before hard. If you have an ace that can still count as 11 without busting, use the soft chart. Once the ace has to count as 1, you are back on a hard hand.
- Everything else is a hard hand. Look up your total on the left column, follow the row across to the dealer’s up-card, and make the play in that cell.
Three quick worked examples:
- You have 8 and 4 vs a dealer 5. Not a pair, no ace — hard 12. Hard chart, row 12, column 5 → S (stand). The dealer busts with a 5 up about 41% of the time; let her do the work.
- You have two 5s vs a dealer 6. Check the pair chart first — it says do not split 5s. Now treat the hand as hard 10. Hard chart, row 10, column 6 → D (double). Splitting fives would turn one strong starting total into two weak ones.
- You have A-2 vs a dealer 7. Soft chart, row “A+2” (soft 13), column 7 → H (hit). Catch a 4 and you have soft 17 — still hit per the soft chart. Catch a 10 after that and you have hard 17, so now you stand. Same hand, three different charts, one decision at a time.
At first trying to learn the charts may seem intimidating, but trust me, memorizing these charts is much easier than it seems. We just have to break it down, and once I am done explaining the logic behind the decisions, learning the right decisions should be much easier. I have summarized all the basic strategy rules for a blackjack game with the playing conditions above (highlighted in yellow.) I recommend writing a summary for your own basic strategy chart, if the playing conditions are different.

Summary of Multiple Deck Basic Strategy Chart
The basic strategy for multiple decks can be summarized as follows:
If you can break by taking another card (that is if you have 12 or higher), always stay when the dealer is showing a 6 or less. The only two exceptions to this rule are when you have a 12 and the dealer is showing a 2 or 3, in which case you hit.
Logic behind this rule: Take a look at the chart below. As you can see, when the dealer is showing 6 or less, she is much more likely to break. This makes sense if you think about it. Since about a third of the cards are tens, if the dealer is showing 7 or higher, a third of the time they will have 17 or higher without even taking another card.
Whereas if the dealer is showing 6 or lower, no matter what the dealer has underneath, she will have to hit again, increasing the odds that she will break (the only exception of course is when the dealer has an ace under the 6). Always play as if the dealer has a ten as the hole card. If the dealer has a 6, pretend she has 16. If you have a hard 12, and the dealer has a 6 showing, stay and hope that the dealer breaks. Don’t hit and break before the dealer does.
When the dealer is showing a 2,3,4,5, or six, she is more likely to break. For this reason, these cards are commonly referred to as the dealer’s break cards
| Dealer’s Up Card | Probability of Breaking |
|---|---|
| 2 | 35.4% |
| 3 | 37.4% |
| 4 | 39.4% |
| 5 | 41.6% |
| 6 | 42.3% |
| 7 | 26.2% |
| 8 | 24.5% |
| 9 | 22.8% |
| 10 | 21.2% |
| A | 16.7% |
If the dealer is showing a 7 or higher, always hit until you have 17 or more points.
Logic: When the dealer is showing a 7, pretend she has 17. If you have 16 against her 7, you will lose if you don’t hit, so hit. There is no sense in ever hitting a hard 17, you will break more often than create a winning hand, so stay, even if the dealer is showing 8 or higher.
Hitting and staying for soft hands is somewhat different than from hard hands. Always hit a soft 17 and lower (except if doubling) Logic: It may seem strange to hit 17, but this time if you get hit with a 10 you still have 17, if you get an ace, two, three, or four, you’ve improved your hand. Even if you do get stuck with a hard hand such as 13 after getting a 6, you’d be surprised at how often you can turn that into a good hand by taking another card. Hit soft 18 against 9,10, A.
Logic: You have to assume that there’s a 10 under the 9. This means that you have 18, and she has 19. Although it seems crazy to hit 18, you must always do so against a 9,10, or ace. Soft 18 is the highest hand you will ever hit.
Surrender all 16’s (except two 8’s, which you split) against a 9, 10, or Ace. If you are not allowed to surrender, just hit.
Logic: 16 is the worst hand you can get. When the dealer is showing a 9,10, or Ace, you will lose more than 75% of the time if you either hit or stay. Surrendering is an excellent choice that will save you lots of money over time.
Surrender 15 against a 10. Again, if you are not allowed to surrender, hit. Logic: 15 is not as bad as 16. Surrender only against tens.
Always double 11 except against an ace. Logic: If you get a ten, you have a perfect 21. Since the dealer will break only about 11% of the time with an ace showing, this is the only time you don’t double on an 11, since if you don’t get the ten or, you have a greater chance of losing.
Remember, you must follow basic strategy always, without exception (unless you are counting cards). If the dealer is showing 10 and you have 11, with a 100 dollar bet up, you must double, don’t think. Always follow basic strategy. Double tens against everything except an ace or ten.
Logic: Doubling ten against a ten is foolish. Even if you do get another ten, the dealer is probably going to push you with her own twenty. Not worth the risk.
Double nines against a 3,4,5, or 6. Logic: Even if you do get a 10, 19 is not such a great hand. Double nines against only against the dealer’s worst break cards.
Double soft 17 and 18 against 3,4,5,6. Double soft 15 and 16 against 4,5,6. Double soft 13 and 14 against 5,6.
When you double on a soft 13 against a a 5, you are hoping that you either get a good card (5 – 8), or that the dealer breaks.
Claiming that the ace could count as a 1, and that he had an 11, he wanted to double. The dealer called her supervisor, who agreed with the player. The player ended up losing that hand. Later, the dealer found out that the player was not allowed to double on that hand, despite what the supervisor said.
Always split Aces and 8’s.
Logic: Two aces combined are either 2 or 12 points, not a great hand. But two separate aces are two 11’s. If you get a ten on either of them, you should end up pushing in the worst case (that is, you win with the 21 and lose the other hand). 16 is the worst hand you can get, it’s much better to have two eights. Many players don’t like splitting eights against a 9,10, or Ace, because if they end up with two 18’s and the dealer has a ten in the hole, then the lose both hands. But it’s still the correct move.
Never Split 10’s and 5’s.
Logic: 20 is a very strong hand, don’t risk creating two losing hands by splitting. Splitting 20’s and hitting a hard hand against a break card are the two things that other players will hate you the most for doing. Splitting two fives easily creates two losing hands, instead of a winning hand.
Split 9’s against everything except a 7,10, or an Ace.
Logic: 18 is not really a winning hand, and two separate nines have a lot of potential for winning, especially against a break card. Again, if you assume that the dealer always has a 10 as the hole card, this decision makes perfect sense. If you have two 9’s, and the dealer is showing a 7, you probably have her beat, so stay.
On the other hand, two 9’s against an ace or a 10 is probably going to lose either way, so it’s better to lose one hand instead of two, so stay. Split two 9’s against a dealer’s 9 in the hopes of getting two 19’s and pushing, instead of losing with 18 against 19 Split 2’s, 3’s, and, 7’s against 7 or less. Logic: When the dealer is showing her weakest cards, take advantage of the situation by creating as many hands as you can. Hopefully, you will get more splits and doubles and the dealer will end up breaking or get stuck with a weak 17. Split 6’s against 6 or less.
Logic: Same reasoning as above. Split 6’s against all her break cards, but not the 7: It’s too easy to get stuck with a 16, with the dealer getting 17. Split 4’s against 5’s and 6’s. Logic: Split 4’s against the dealer’s weakest cards only, as two separate fours can easily turn into two losing hands if you get a ten on them.
Basic Strategy Chart in Blackjack
(Six decks, dealer stands on all 17s, double after split allowed.) 
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Full Basic Strategy Charts (S17, 4–8 Decks, Double After Split)
The images above are the reference cards; the tables below are the same information in text, for scanning, memorizing on mobile, or copying into your own cheat sheet. All three tables are correct for the rule set almost every multi-deck shoe game in the country uses: four to eight decks, dealer stands on soft 17, double after splits allowed, late surrender available.
Legend: H = hit, S = stand, D = double if allowed (otherwise hit), Ds = double if allowed (otherwise stand), P = split, Rh = surrender if allowed (otherwise hit).
Hard Totals
| Your hand | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | A |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5–8 | H | H | H | H | H | H | H | H | H | H |
| 9 | H | D | D | D | D | H | H | H | H | H |
| 10 | D | D | D | D | D | D | D | D | H | H |
| 11 | D | D | D | D | D | D | D | D | D | H |
| 12 | H | H | S | S | S | H | H | H | H | H |
| 13 | S | S | S | S | S | H | H | H | H | H |
| 14 | S | S | S | S | S | H | H | H | H | H |
| 15 | S | S | S | S | S | H | H | H | Rh | H |
| 16 | S | S | S | S | S | H | H | Rh | Rh | Rh |
| 17–21 | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S |
Soft Totals (hands containing an ace counted as 11)
| Your hand | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | A |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A,2 (13) | H | H | H | D | D | H | H | H | H | H |
| A,3 (14) | H | H | H | D | D | H | H | H | H | H |
| A,4 (15) | H | H | D | D | D | H | H | H | H | H |
| A,5 (16) | H | H | D | D | D | H | H | H | H | H |
| A,6 (17) | H | D | D | D | D | H | H | H | H | H |
| A,7 (18) | S | Ds | Ds | Ds | Ds | S | S | H | H | H |
| A,8 (19) | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S |
| A,9 (20) | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S |
Pairs
| Your pair | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | A |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2,2 | P | P | P | P | P | P | H | H | H | H |
| 3,3 | P | P | P | P | P | P | H | H | H | H |
| 4,4 | H | H | H | P | P | H | H | H | H | H |
| 5,5 | D | D | D | D | D | D | D | D | H | H |
| 6,6 | P | P | P | P | P | H | H | H | H | H |
| 7,7 | P | P | P | P | P | P | H | H | H | H |
| 8,8 | P | P | P | P | P | P | P | P | P | Rh |
| 9,9 | P | P | P | P | P | S | P | P | S | S |
| 10,10 | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S | S |
| A,A | P | P | P | P | P | P | P | P | P | P |
Three things are worth flagging on these charts. First, never split 5s or 10s — 10 is the strongest starting total in blackjack outside of a natural, and a pair of 5s is really a hard 10 in disguise and should usually be doubled. Second, 16 is the ugliest hand in the game; surrender it against 9, 10, or A whenever the table allows, and hit when it doesn’t. Third, soft 18 is not a stand-everywhere hand — against a dealer 9, 10, or ace you are the underdog, so hitting gives you a real chance to improve.
How the Chart Changes When the Rules Change
The tables above assume the most common modern shoe rules: S17, DAS, 4–8 decks, late surrender. Once you have those decisions automatic, a handful of adjustments let you play almost any real-world game correctly. The differences are small — a few cells per rule change — but they do matter.
If the dealer hits soft 17 (H17)
- Double A,8 (soft 19) vs dealer 6 — becomes Ds instead of stand.
- Double 11 vs dealer A — becomes D instead of H.
- Surrender hard 15 vs dealer A (if surrender is available) — becomes Rh instead of H.
- Surrender hard 17 vs dealer A — yes, surrender a 17 here. This is the move most players resist; the chart is right and they are wrong.
- Surrender pair of 8,8 vs dealer A — becomes Rh/Rp instead of P.
If you cannot double after splitting (no DAS)
- 2,2 vs dealer 2 or 3 — hit instead of split.
- 3,3 vs dealer 2 or 3 — hit instead of split.
- 4,4 vs dealer 5 or 6 — hit instead of split.
- 6,6 vs dealer 2 — hit instead of split.
If you are playing single deck (rare and almost always 6:5 — see the payout trap above)
- Double 11 vs dealer A — D instead of H.
- Double 9 vs dealer 2 — D instead of H.
- Double 8 vs dealer 5 or 6 — D instead of H.
- Double A,8 vs dealer 6 — Ds.
- Double A,3 vs dealer 4 — D.
If you can only memorize one adjustment, memorize H17. Tables that advertise “liberal rules” almost always mean H17 in exchange for something — usually double after split or surrender — and those five cells above are where you reclaim the EV you would otherwise be leaving behind.
A 7-Day Drill Plan to Actually Memorize the Chart
Most players who say they “know” basic strategy only really know about half of it. They nail hard totals, they mostly nail pairs, and then they panic on soft hands and default to intuition. This week-long plan burns the full chart in by loading the highest-volume decisions first, moving to the edge cases, and ending with speed work.
Day 1 — Hard totals 12–16 versus everything
These are the most common decisions in blackjack. Print the hard chart, cover every other row, and run through the 2–A dealer cards for each of your totals (12, 13, 14, 15, 16). You are looking for the break point: stand against 2–6 (with the 12-vs-2-or-3 exception), hit against 7–A, surrender when the chart says so. Ten minutes, three passes, move on.
Day 2 — Hard doubling: 9, 10, 11
These decisions return the most EV when you get them right. Drill until “11 vs everything except ace” feels like a reflex. Then run a ten-hand quiz where half the hands are 9s, 10s, and 11s and you call out the correct play out loud before looking.
Day 3 — Soft totals
This is where most drills fail. Soft totals look easy because there are fewer cells, but the pattern is less intuitive and the doubles are aggressive. Pay special attention to A,7 (soft 18): stand vs 2, 7, 8; double vs 3–6; hit vs 9, 10, A. That single row trips up more players than any other in the chart.
Day 4 — Pairs
Pairs are memorable because there are only ten rows, but they have the most rule-sensitive cells. Focus on A,A and 8,8 (always split), 10,10 and 5,5 (never split), and the middle pairs (2,2 through 7,7) where the split-or-hit decision depends on the dealer’s up-card.
Day 5 — Mixed drills at 30 seconds per hand
Random-hand quiz: deal yourself two cards, put down a random dealer up-card, and make the play within 30 seconds. A free app or a browser-based trainer works for this, as does a deck of cards on a kitchen table. Target 90% accuracy before you speed up.
Day 6 — Mixed drills at 10 seconds per hand
Same drill, one-third the time. This is the pace of an actual casino table. If you drop below 85% accuracy, slow back down — you are building in bad habits. When you can hit 95% at 10 seconds, the chart is internalized.
Day 7 — Live-session simulation
Fifty hands on free blackjack or a real low-limit table, with no chart reference and real-time decisions. Keep a tally of hands you played correctly versus hands you’d want to re-do. Review the miss list the next morning. If the same three or four hands keep showing up, those are your leak hands — drill them in isolation the following week.
Practice Tools and Free Drills
You do not need a book or an app to learn basic strategy, but the right tool makes the first week much faster. A few options that actually work:
- A printed chart next to a deck of cards. Deal two cards to yourself, pick a dealer up-card from the deck, call the play, then flip to the chart to check. Old-school, free, and the closest analog to live pace.
- A basic-strategy trainer app. Any trainer that highlights the correct play after each hand will compress a week of drilling into two or three focused sessions. Look for one that lets you filter by hard totals, soft totals, or pairs so you can isolate your weaknesses.
- Free online blackjack in training mode. Most free blackjack tables let you play unlimited hands at no cost. The advantage over a trainer is that you practice the full flow — betting, dealing, deciding, paying out — at something approximating real pace.
- A paper cheat sheet in your pocket at the casino. Almost every casino in the United States allows you to consult a written strategy chart at the table. The dealer will not care. This is a legal, widely accepted practice and it is by far the fastest way to make sure you never drop an EV-negative decision on a night when you are tired or up too much to think clearly.
Whichever tool you pick, the principle is the same: reps beat theory. Ten minutes a day for two weeks will burn the chart in permanently. Reading about basic strategy for an hour will not.
The 3:2 vs 6:5 payout trap
Perfect basic strategy is worth about 1.5% in expected value. A 6:5 blackjack payout costs you about 1.4% — so sitting at a 6:5 table with a flawless chart puts you right back where you started, as if you never learned strategy at all.
The math is concrete. On a $20 bet, a 3:2 natural pays $30. A 6:5 natural pays $24. Same hand, same skill, $6 less — and you hit a natural roughly once every 21 hands. Before you sit down, look at the felt: if it says “Blackjack pays 6 to 5” or “pays 1.2 to 1,” walk. Almost every shoe game on the Strip still paying 3:2 is either a high-limit table or a downtown Vegas room — there’s usually one nearby that isn’t a tax on your learning.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to learn basic strategy well?
Most players can become competent in a few focused weeks, then improve with repetition under real pace.
Common Basic Strategy Leaks (and How to Fix Them)
Most players who say they “know” basic strategy still leak money in predictable spots. The biggest leaks are insurance clicks, standing on hard 16 versus a dealer 10 when surrender is unavailable, and splitting decisions made by emotion instead of chart logic. The cure is simple: drill your top 15 most misplayed hands until they become automatic. For a broader rundown of what recreational players get wrong in real sessions, see the five most common online blackjack mistakes.
A practical method is to keep a one-page list of mistake hands near your setup and review it before each session. This is especially helpful online where pace is fast and misclicks happen. Correcting a few high-frequency mistakes does more for your bottom line than learning advanced concepts too early.
Basic strategy in real sessions
When you move from drills to real play—online or live—your goal is the same decisions at full speed: no hunting the chart, no “close enough” stands on borderline totals.
Does basic strategy guarantee profit?
No. It reduces house edge and improves long-run expectation, but short-term variance still dominates individual sessions.
Should I change strategy after two or three losses in a row?
No. Streaks do not invalidate strategy. If you are tilted, lower stakes or stop the session, but do not rewrite the chart mid-game.